Measure the beam's share of each cut, and let a printed gauge choose your slot clearances for you.
Laser cutting doesn't draw a line of zero width โ the beam burns away material on both sides of every cut path. Each edge of a cut loses K/2, where K is the kerf. That's the whole theory of fit.
The app's method is a ruler, not a manual: cut N squares of side S, push them end to end in a line, and measure the true total length M. Then:
K = S โ M / N
The default: 10 squares of 20 mm โ 200 mm drawn. Measured 198.4 mm together โ K = 20 โ 19.84 = 0.16 mm. Run this same math in the tools page.
The app's own test checks exactly this: its worked example gives 0.16 mm from a 198.4 mm measure.
With the offset off, work the kerf into your drawings yourself: slots come out drawn as T + c โ K; tabs as the design width + K. With an offset entered โ LightBurn's kerf offset โ you give it K/2, and paths move outward on outer shapes and inward on holes, which is exactly what the physical cut removes.
"What clearance should I design?" โ stop asking, print it: the app lays out 10 slots from T โ 0.25 to T + 0.20 mm in 0.05 mm steps, cut with the offset off, teeth 4 mm on a score layer, digits in seven-segment strokes. Press each slot until one fits. The gauge's teeth were cut with the same beam, so the fit tells you the real clearance directly:
c = the slot that fit + K โ T
There is NO default clearance in the app โ none invented, none shipped. Zero is a press fit, and the gauge measures everything else.
Sheet sold as 3 mm varies by a few tenths of a millimetre โ makers note 3 ยฑ 0.2 mm tolerance on their plywood, and "3 mm" Baltic birch in the US is often sold at 1/8" (3.18 mm). The gauge's own demo says the same thing: caliper the sheet, then cut the gauge for that sheet.